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What is guiding?
The opinion that you’ll read here is my personal one and can be different from others. But 9 years of guiding let me say some words about it and it can be useful for those who are going to join a guided expedition or to take a private guide.
This question is the most important for the CLIENT. The system of certification is developed only in Europe and partly in the USA (though some guides die there due to not enough experience). In all other countries and also in Russia this kind of job does not exist because it is not in the list of jobs recognized by the government or there are no mountains in some countries. On the other hand some very famous companies loose their clients sometimes or let them be damaged by different mountain factors. So before you go to the mountains you must decide first what will be the MOST IMPORTANT FOR YOU – THE RESULT OR YOUR HAPPY LIFE. Some guides even say (for example) “five of ten summited” despite the fact that two died of descent and will never tell anybody about their success. Others just include in the success rate themselves. So it is up to you to decide how much does the mountain guide’s certificate matters for you.
To let the client enjoy the climb the mountain guide must be a good person first of all. When there is a conflict between people even on a short climb – this is no satisfaction from the top and may be dangerous.
We don’t discuss all necessary skills for the certain route or expedition.
A mountain guide must be easy to get along with. He must help you to avoid stress from the unusual scenery around.
The guide must be tough in making decisions.
The responsibility for everything he had done is also extremely important in this kind of job.
A Mountain guide must know resqcue technic, making slides, transporting of people. No guide is possible without elementary medical knowledge.
A mountain guide is not a porter. Even if he feels and looks better than all the members. This is very important question. If you will need to be rescued few hours later it is better to have your guide still strong.
Remembering all these featchures you mustn’t forget that a mountain guide is also a human being from whom your life depends, so never be rude, always try to understand him or small mistakes that he is making. You must always communicate to your gude, to inform him about your problems, ask him for advice.
All the things and developments mentioned in the article are true. All the companies exist. No names mentioned only because of ethic.